Eating Out – SUSUR, Toronto

A very disappointing evening at a famous Toronto eatery.

We spent last weekend in Toronto where we attended a formal dinner hosted by the Toronto Chapter of the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs. The event ran in conjunction with the Canadian Young Commis Competition and was held at the Fairmont Royal York Hotel. The dinner, held on Saturday evening, was a magnificent affair made even more delightful by the presence of a number of our good friends from Calgary.
The dinner was prepared by Executive Chef David Garcelon who we got to know and admire during the 5 years he held the same position at the Fairmont here in Bermuda. Finally, our good friend Marino Tavares, chef/owner of Café Ferreira in Montreal was inducted into the Chaîne as Maître Rôtisseur. It was as special treat to see Josée, Membre du Conseil d’Administration, on stage with Marino during his induction.
On the Friday evening, we’d arranged to eat at SUSUR, one of the most talked about restaurants in Canada. One of only 2 Canadian eateries ever to have made it onto Restaurant Magazine’s World’s 50 Best Restaurants list (49th in 2002), here was a place we just had to try.

I’m not a food critic but just so we’re straight here, I’ll show my cards right away: 1- Service plays a very important role in my dining experience. 2- I don’t mind paying top dollar as long as the restaurant lives up to its reputation.
We had a reservation at 6:30pm but managed to get it changed to 9:00pm through friends in the restaurant business. Our party of 8 arrived right on time and we were led to our table by our waitress Diane (name changed to protect her identity). The décor can simply be described as, well, white. Very white. Ok, the floors are wood and there are rectangular recesses in the walls that change color all evening. White linen tablecloths, a definite plus, but nothing to dampen reflected sound so very loud and difficult on conversation. Ordinary stainless steel utensils and restaurant grade Riedel crystal. And, no maître d’ as far as I could tell.
After seating us, Diane introduced herself: “Hi. My name is Diane and I’ll be taking care of you this evening. (looking down at her midsection and pointing) Got this little stain on my shirt earlier on…sorry (giggle)…so the chef recommends the 7 course tasting menu tonight.” And get this! She delivers this introduction while chewing gum!! I kid you not!
Tasting menus are always the way to go at high-end restaurants as this permits the chef to show off his best stuff. We took Chef Lee’s suggestion and went with the 7-course option.
You are perfectly right to note the small cloud that already hangs over this dining experience in the form a stain and a wad of chewing gum…an inauspicious beginning indeed. But make no mistake; Susur Lee is a great chef. The food we were to eat was well prepared and innovative. Here is a small sampling of what we had:
• Trilogy of marinated eggplant, parmesan crisps and oven dried tomatoes and pig’s feet in gelatin
• Thai broth with cuttlefish, lobster, clams, garlic crouton / mustard seed saffron aioli
• Filet of bison with sautéed fois gras in smoky BBQ sauce
• Jerusalem artichoke gratin
• Lobster bisque / poached lobster / crème fraiche
• Raspberry sorbet with lichees and green tea

Mr. Lee’s cuisine is most definitely fusion in the best sense of the word. He is an artist with flavors and the plate is his canvas. He is to Toronto what Normand Laprise of TOQUE! is to Montreal…save for one little quirk: he believes in serving his tasting menus in reverse order “so the meal diminishes in both size and weight from the principal course.” Different.
Mr. Lee, however, would be well advised to take a walk around his dining room, as this is where his reputation may take a hit. Let me explain. First of all, there is no sommelier or at least he was not present that evening. In a restaurant that serves courses with such complex combinations of flavors AND in the reverse order, wine choice requires a Ph.D. Laprise at TOQUE! works with a sommelier that knows the chef and his food foibles intimately and advises the clients appropriately. We had the waitress.
I’ve already mentioned the stained and chewing Diane. The fine art of table service is rare enough nowadays but one cannot be faulted for expecting at least a semblance of it at an establishment that has been rated as one of the best in the world. Can you blame me therefore for grinding my teeth when Diane, having been asked what the delay was in getting the first wine we had ordered replied, “Sorry but the guy who has the wine cellar key seems to have left the premises and no one has been able to locate him.” still chewing gum and laying a sympathetic hand on my left shoulder. Made me want to pop another 10mg Vasotec for my blood pressure! Can you believe it?
Later on I was between bites and chatting with the person opposite me, my left forearm resting on the tablecloth when I felt a hand slip gently under my hand to deposit a utensil on the table. Literally. “What exactly are you doing, Diane?” I said. “Just placing the utensils for the next course.” said she. “While I’m eating!?” “Sorry.” She said again laying that sweet hand on my shoulder. I have never in my gastronomic life had a waiter lift my hand to deposit a utensil WHILE I WAS EATING. Have you?
Ironing the tablecloth ON the table is a venerable French tradition I have always admired. In France, they do it BEFORE the guests arrive. At SUSUR’s, they do it IN FRONT of the guests. Just had to get that in.
Now, you might think I’m being a little hard on Mr. Lee but considering the meal cost us nearly $250. per person, including 17% service charge (for our convenience), I beg to differ. Mr. Lee, you need to tighten up your front room. Ban the gum, spend some money on a better laundry service, hire a sommelier and get staff that will do your food proud by serving it like professionals. Oh…and get a second key for that wine cellar.

Joseph Froncioni