This is NOT the definitive guide to Dublin eating. Our 3 days in Baile Átha Cliath, Irish for Dublin, were pleasant enough especially that we got to spend quality time with our very good friends Tom and Robin, but our goal was not to plumb the depths of Irish cuisine. Rather, we explored the city and environs and savored the atmosphere and cultural offerings.
The DART is an ideal way to get around the greater Dublin area and is a very pleasant way to visit the nearby towns. A walk down the old and winding streets of Dalkey to the south and a visit to its 15th century Goat Castle took up most of a morning and gave us an appetite for lunch. Finnegan’s Pub on Sorrento Road served up Irish cottage pie and smoked cod and we washed it down with the mandatory pint of Guinness. Farther north, we strolled through the fishing village of Howth and learned a thing or two about the local catch from a very talkative Chilean fishmonger.
Back in Dublin proper, we strolled down Grafton Street and hit some pubs in Temple Bar just south of the River Liffey. I particularly enjoyed Trinity College, founded in 1592 by Elizabeth I where we saw the very ancient Book of Kells.
But back to eating. We did make one very interesting find and that would be a Dublin restaurant with the unusual moniker of One Pico . Tucked away in Molesworth Place, One Pico is an excellent example of the wave of fine dining that has no doubt accompanied Ireland’s newfound fortunes. The atmosphere is warm and the service attentive. The walls are decorated with interesting framed works by Irish artists. The master in the kitchen is Stephen McAllister and I can tell you that this is one chef that deserves your attention. Here’s what we ate:
Starters: Roast Scallops with carrot and cardamom puree, carrot and chervil salad and Riesling jelly; Ham Hock and Foie Gras Terrine with crushed peas, pea and basil ice cream (The ice cream was outstanding and was a perfect accompaniment for the terrine.); Langoustines on a bed of orange and white Valhrona chocolate risotto, summer truffle and sorrel (This is what Josée and I had and it ranks as one of the best dishes we have ever had. The taste of white chocolate in the perfectly cooked risotto was nicely offset by the acid in the thin slices of orange. The langoustines were so tender they just melted in the mouth. What a discovery! Photo 1)
Main Courses: Roast New Season Lamb with goats’ cheese cannelloni, sweet garlic, lemon and basil ; Roast Rabbit, saddle wrapped in Parma ham, stuffed leg, confit shoulder, apple and vanilla puree, voilette mustard Photo 4; Barbary Duck Breast, chicory, prune and tea puree, confit duck ravioli, orange and poppy seeds Photo 2.
Side orders: mousseline potatoes; baby potatoes, parsley, garlic and lemon butter; roast organic carrots, honey and thyme; organic beetroot, chive crème fraîche.
Desserts: Chocolate and Cherry, chocolate délice, cocoa and cherry ice crème, balsamic and kirsch syrup Photo 7; Pineapple and Coconut, ravioli of pineapple and tropical fruit, coconut sorbet, Coca-Cola jelly (Yup, you read correctly.)Photo 6 ; Raspberry and White Chocolate, orange and Campari jelly, raspberry and white chocolate salad Photo 5.
Wine: 2 bottles of decent claret: Sarget de Gruaud Larose (I don’t remember the year. I know you’re wondering about the modest wine consumption but we had started sipping long before dinner.)
Total for 4 before grats: €423.75 and well worthwhile. We’ll be back.
Comments