Explain to me how a country best known for pastries, open faced sandwiches and Carlsberg beer can have given us the best restaurant in the world? Well it has, and that restaurant is Noma in Copenhagen. Noma first appeared on the gastronomic radar when it showed up in 33rd spot on the extremely well respected World's 50 Best Restaurants list, published by RESTAURANT magazine, in 2006. It then quickly climbed the chart first to 15th, then to 10th and then to 3rd place. Finally, in 2010, it made to 1st place and remains there to this day. The chefs at Noma offer a reinterpretation of traditional Danish cookery and adhere to the principles of wildculture.
Obviously, Danish cuisine has evolved tremendously now that products from far and wide are easily available. However, traditional foods still play a major role in Danish daily fare. While potatoes, fish and meat are the most popular, a Dane will never pass up smørrbrød, literally "buttered bread". This open faced sandwich usually starts with buttered rye bread that is topped with a variety of goodies that might include fish, cheese, meat and pickles.
And let's not forget aquavit....or rather, let's. I was once invited to a Nordic meal where the only beverage served was chilled aquavit. Needless to say, I can't remember anything about the evening.
Here is Josée's Danish offering:
Cucumber Salad
Poached Fish with Mustard Sauce
Caramelized Carrots and Potatoes
The cucumber salad is a traditional sweet and sour salad dish from Denmark but there are versions in each of the Scandinavian countries. The cucumbers are thinly sliced, sprinkled with salt and then marinated in a mixture of wine vinegar, water, sugar and pepper for 3 - 6 hours. Before serving, the salad is drained and sprinkled with dill or chives. The result is suprisingly delicious and tangy. Although from a Nordic country, this salad deserves to be included in our summer repertoire.
The fish is usually cod but Josée used fresh hogfish. The fish is poached in butter, onions, cream, salt pepper and nutmeg for 10 - 15 minutes. The sauce combines vinegar, mustard, cardamon, salt and pepper and is thickenned by whisking in oil. Finally, the pre-boiled potatoes and carrots are caremelized in sugar and butter.
I have to say the whole thing was outstanding. The fish was flaky and livened up by the sauce. The veggies melted in the mouth.
As I was on call, this delightful meal was washed down with chilled sparkling water.
Joseph Froncioni
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